I’m trying to chronicle my recent sailing trip and this is the second part. My apologies that there wont be lots of photos on this blog to assist the imagination . As per my last post, i left my stuffs back in Cyprus including some Cd’s with photos and as of this time, I’m still coordinating with the captain the best way to send it without costing me an arm and a leg. So far, no such luck! During the 2 weeks that i spent in Northern Cyprus, i don’t think i have seen FedEx, DHL or UPS anywhere.According to the captain, the only option i have at the moment is to have my stuffs sent via the post office but, I’m not really happy about the rate, but i guess i have to make a decision soon if i want my stuffs back.Sigh!
Thailand- Sri lanka ( via Andaman sea & Indian Ocean), Jan. 12-19, 2007
As we pulled out of the mooring in Chalong at 2:30pm on the 12th of Jan., i felt really special having to see once again the beautiful coasts of Chalong, Naiharn, Rawai and the many islets that dots the Phuket peninsula. The contrast of the green trees against the blueness of the sea was just amazing. You can immediately feel the difference as you inhale the fresh, unpolluted ocean air and despite experiencing it many times in the past, it still never fails to mesmerize me. and I guess I wasn’t the only one. The 2 German crews were as entranced as i was with the scenery before us..
Before nightfall, we had enough wind that enabled us to switch- off the single engine that we were using and just rely on the sail. The wind direction was also favourable. We were doing 7 to 8 knots and that was already pretty good for us. We were not in a hurry which made it all the better. By that time, we were almost 100 nautical miles from the south of Thailand and can no longer see land. The total miles to reach Sri lanka from Phuket was 1135nm more or less.
I took the liberty of cooking that night ( nothing really fancy–spaghetti bolognese with garlic bread only) but judging by the clean plates and pots, i guess they liked it ( and no i don’t think they sneaked out to throw the food away!).Because i cooked, it meant that i don’t have to do the dishes. Hooray ! To save water, it was decided not to use the dishwashing machine unless we are on the harbor with easy access to the water supply.
After dinner, as we gathered on the upper deck, no one really wanted to talk that much. We don’t really want to break the comfortable silence…. The moon was just starting to shine and though it was dark and we were in the middle of the sea and no land or light on sight, except for the glittering stars.. it doesn’t feel eerie at all.. It was very very special and moving. The particular thought that i had that time was… believe it or not, were the people who survived being on the the sea and were only found after many days .. more often than not, severely dehydrated but otherwise alive. I have read so many stories and watched many documentaries about it. I cant imagine being alone in the dark with no certainty if one will survive the night.But i can now identify the ordeal they went through although i was dry and safely aboard the luxurious boat. It must have been really scary for them…I don’t think i can survive it…but then again.. no one really knows the extent of one’s strength unless the situation called for it.
The glittering stars were mesmerizing and we spent almost the whole time looking up the sky—star-gazing, waiting for falling stars so we can make our wishes. One would feel truly blessed being there that time, with only the sound of the waves lapping the side of the boat as it glides on the water. The sea was very calm and it was just overwhelmingly serene. I wish i am eloquent to put the feelings into words and to describe what it was like. It was just absolutely wonderful…
By the end of the second day of the trip, we reached the Nicobar group of islands. It meant that was the end of the Andaman Sea and once we passed the Nicobar islands.. we will be cruising the Indian Ocean till we reach Sri lanka…It also rained very hard that night..the upper deck was flooded and although we have tarpaulins on both side.. we cant really stay on deck as the seats were wet. Many things played on my mind.. watched too much TV or movies i guess…. i know the boat was stable and we have a very experienced captain. Besides.. the wind wasn’t that strong to capsize the boat… at least that was i kept telling myself and the other filipina crew who was a first-timer.
Andaman sea was okay.. it was when we were in the Indian ocean that it started to get rough.. about 1 to 2 meter waves. But because the swell was coming from the starboard side (right) … it made the boat roll from side to side.. and because we were using the sail.. the boat was tilted to the port side (left). Sometimes it feels like its gonna keel over but thankfully the boat was stable and always righted itself. It’s difficult to do many things when it was rough.. difficult to walk, to cook, to sleep, seat in the loo and take a shower!
We took turns cooking and washing dishes. The 3 guys took shifts to watch over at night. The boat was on auto-pilot but nevertheless, we needed to watch for oncoming ships or God -forbid—pirates!
There were very few ships… Indian ocean is so vast that u cant really see anything farther than 15 miles unless one uses a binocular.At night we have to rely only on the radar screen. The average ship in a day / night that we saw were 3 to 4 ships, if we were lucky. We spent our time mostly talking, reading, playing backgammon, or sleeping. Some days we practice shooting. (Yes we have weapons on board! Nothing hi-powered or what have you! just an old shotgun and 2 old rifles and lots of old ammo!! It has always been on the boat since after the pirate incident in the Philippines back in the late 80’s. The cousin of the captain died while the captain sustained several stab wounds. That was actually the reason why the boat moved to Thailand and stayed for 14years!) I fired both guns. I am comfortable with guns as i love going to shooting galleries even here in Phuket. Not as often as i wanted to unfortunately, coz i find it very expensive. It costs a significant amount for me for a 10-bullet round!)
We always have our dinners after sunset, afterwards, we either listen to our own ipods or just absorb the experience being in the middle of the sea. We don’t really switch on the lights at the upper deck when its not needed. Just the navigation lights and the sailing lights. We have 3 generators but they use fuel also and we have to save as much as we can. All the instruments were running on batteries.
We were dragging a fishing line while sailing as well.. but Indian ocean was not that generous to us and maybe we only caught like 4 fishes about 1 to 1.5kgs. each. Mostly small tuna… Nevertheless, it’s always exciting times when we hear the fishing line makes sound to indicate that we caught something! You cant get a fresher fish than that!!..
Sunset was always the main event of the day! There was no other scenery except the sea, the horizon and the sky…Occasionally, there would be a school of dolphins who will put on a show for us and we have to clap , shout and encourage them to make the show lasts longer. They love to have enthusiastic audiences and they love to race the boat and normally they swim just beside the bow, and we took photos or videos and just enjoyed the spectacle. Communication with Paul was done via fax and he sent me sms via the satellite phone that one of the German crew brought. For the next 6 days our days were like that…
We reached Sri lanka in a town called Galle by dawn of the 7th day. We moored just outside their harbor and waited for day break. There was a barrier going inside as they also have their naval ships there. By 8am, 4 people aboard 2 small speed boats, mounted with machine gun, were coming our way! Thankfully they were the not the trigger- happy bunch and didn’t shower us with bullets! It was my worry coz i know that they have problems with rebels as well! After all the formalities, we were guided inside the harbor till an agent came aboard to take care of the procedures for the immigration, customs and harbor master. We were all given 30 days visa and we had to pay in dollars not in Rupee. We declared the weapons we had on board and brought it to customs for safe keeping till we were ready to leave Sri Lanka. By mid afternoon, we were ready to go ashore!
We first went to town to change money. I was with the 2 German crews - Bernie and Florian and the filipina crew, Rowena. The exchange rate was Rp 107 to 1US$. The fare for the tuktuk (3-wheeled vehicle like the ones found in Thailand) was Rp150 one- way and it took 10 minutes. The first impression i had: the road was dusty and the vehicles were mostly old and the structures were not modern. I still saw remnants of the past catastrophe and i learned afterwards that almost 50 thousand people died in that town alone when the 2004 tsunami hit them. Some structures were still in ruins while some has been repaired although very few were really completely rebuilt. It can be classified as a poor coastal town. But then again, I’m no expert on this. …I’m also happy to be communicating with Paul once again. I bought a Sri lankan sim card as it was cheaper way to use for daily communication than my roaming sim.
We asked the tuktuk driver to take us somewhere where we can eat. He took us to the place called Unawatuna which is a tourist beach area. Lots of little shops selling tourist wares, and small restaurants and resorts. The beach was also beautiful with many sunbeds that one can use for free….compared to Phuket that one gets charged 200 Baht for a sunbed! The road going to the beach area was not paved and very narrow. One has to be an adept driver to survive on the road in that town. I was glad to see that quite a number of tourist have come back to Sri lanka.. although of course not as many as the tourists in Phuket. I know it will help their economy. The weather was perfect and we ordered the native Sri lankan food consisted mainly of curries. Curried everything— chicken, legumes and vegetables! I was surprised to see Filipinos there but then again, we are really everywhere in the world. Those Filipinos were working on the ship and docked in the same harbor. It was a pleasant afternoon and afterwards, as we were waiting for the appointed time for the driver to pick us up to take us back to the harbor, we went to the internet shop to check some mails.
Back in the harbor, there were about 10 sailing yachts, both monohulls and catamarans, a rally organized by BlueWater . These yachts were sailing around the world. Some were private yachts much bigger than ours.. and there was even a cruise liner that docked there and was doing the asian leg of the cruise. Those yachts and the ship stops in Sri lanka, Maldives and India. I wished we were going to maldives as well, but it wasnt part of our iteneraries. sigh!
By 10pm, the 3 of us ( me and my 2 boys as i called them) went to the local disco just to check out the night scene in Galle. It was a beach side disco and lots of tourists as customers. There were some locals as well but mostly men. The cost of drinks was a total rip -off— I mean for Sri lanka! What do i expect? We were in the tourist area.. so we were expected to pay a tourist price. It would be an expensive way for us to get drunk that night!!! But got drunk we did….and we went back to the boat happy as Larry!
The following morning… we woke up with a sumptuous breakfast courtesy of the captain. It was such a feast that eventhough the 3 of us were sporting hung overs, we still managed to enjoy breakfast…! The poor boys have to wash the deck that day as well and clean their own cabin. The boat was covered in salt, whereas i have to clean my own cabin and head (bathroom/toilet).The other filipina crew took care of the lower deck and the saloons. Well she wasn’t of much help when we were sailing as she was sea sick the whole time (?).
We stayed in Sri lanka for a total of 3nights. I also got invited by an old tuktuk driver, who treated me like a daughter, to visit their house and meet his wife and 2 sons. I took the opportunity to see inside a Sri lankan house and learn what i can about their culture and how they live. He even showed me how high the water reached inside his house during the tsunami. They were spared coz they have a 2 storey house but lost some relatives and friends. That same guy watched over us while we were in the disco and made sure that we wont be harassed by the locals. I think it was very sweet of him to have done that. On our last day, we went food shopping and we also refilled our water tanks. We didn’t refuel as we were using the sail 80% of the time on the way there and didn’t use much diesel. That morning after food shopping, Bernie and i went back to the beach area just to relax and to swim in the Indian ocean. The water was warm like in Phuket or Philippines… but it was a little bit rough for me and although it was just a few feet away from the shore.. it was already deep. Maybe it was the time of the year.. i dunno!
We sailed away from Sri lanka at sunset of the 22nd of Jan… it was a beautiful time to leave…the sky was turning orange/red, yellow and all the beautiful hues of sunset.. we rolled the ropes and put the fenders back to where it was being kept. The best location on the boat to watch the dunset was at the bow. I would normally stay there until it gets dark.We had a great time, albeit briefly. Sri lankan people were friendly and not “in your face” kind of pushy people compared to some Egyptians we met…The only thing i bought as a souvenir was a bizarre- looking face of a bird, made of wood but painted beautifully. According to them one puts it above ones door to ward off the evil spirit..kinda like the protective Pa Kua of the Chinese.. and oh yes…a blue sapphire-eternity ring set in gold hehehhe! Im just sharing it not to brag.. but to share that one can get good quality stones there that won’t cost as much compared to other countries..The store was certified by the Sri lankan Tourism board and was in business for quite a while.. so im not really worried that i got a fake stuff although some other people will try to talk to you , even inside the harbor, to sell you stones cheaply. Now that is scary…
I had a good experience in Sri lanka. The people maybe poor but they were friendly and hospitable without really expecting anything in return…I wouldn’t mind going back there one day….
Thanks for reading! More to come….